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Saturday, September 14, 2013

MISSING MAN


Missing Man

     The first time I met Bill Motto was on the street outside the Veterans' hall in Santa Cruz. He was holding forth on some book or newspaper article or recent event that, to him, was yet another confirmation of the depths to which U.S. imperialism had sunk in the 20th century. His talk was brilliant, informed, and delivered so fast that even those of us who read a lot and pretty much shared his judgments about U.S. foreign policy had a hard time keeping up with him. Jesus Christ, I thought as I listened to him, this guy's wound too tight for his own good.     
     We got to be friends. But like most of the other vets, I could only handle being with Bill in limited doses. He didn't live anywhere; he "crashed around": he'd stay at a friend's house, keeping as low a profile as possible and helping with chores where he could, but finally just being too jarring a presence in a person's, or a family's, life. He'd either be asked to move on, or would get the hints and do it on his own. Sometimes he'd disappear for a few days or weeks, hang out in San Francisco or his old haunts up the coast around Guerneville, then show up again. I let him crash at my place for a few weeks, but it was a tiny three room rented house and when Bill was camped out in the living room, it wasn't even mine anymore. 
     "Bill," I said to him one day, "this...."
     "It's time, huh?"      
     "Yeah."
     He nodded, smiled a resigned smile, thanked me, and took off.
     One night a few weeks later I came home from a late night in town, and there was Bill, in his sleeping bag, on my living room floor. He was awake when I turned the light on. He shrugged. "I tried," he said. "There wasn't any other place. I'll be gone tomorrow."
     Bill and I were in a Vietnam vets' rap group. There were seven of us, plus a counselor named Greg Anderson who coordinated the group. Greg had been a Marine Sergeant in Nam. 

      Once a week, we sat in a little upstairs room in the Vets' Hall and poured our guts out: combat, nightmares, alcohol, drugs, sex, relationships. A man listening as his lover took hours to die screaming in a foxhole under a mortar barrage. Bill, who was an airborne medic with a deeply ingrained ethic about saving lives, telling about walking across the top of a bunker and being shot in the back from within it, to find out after the bunker was blown up that he'd been shot by a North Vietnamese Army nurse who looked a lot like his first lover, a Filipina girl in East Los Angeles. The nurse died when the bunker was blown. One vet told of killing his first man before he even went to Nam, in a fight with another soldier in a holding cell after a wild weekend pass from Fort Bragg, North Carolina. I told about Tho An (see above, Prologue and chapter “Tho An”), and about the Marine radio operator who blamed me for his friend's death (chapter “You’re Too Late”). 
     We talked about the years since the war, about the forms our rage took, against ourselves and those we loved, or those we wanted to love but couldn't, or those we didn't even know; about too much alcohol, too many drugs, never wanting to be without a weapon; about not being able to sleep, or sleeping with one eye open and a pistol under the pillow, about checking every room you entered for dangerous people and exits, about always preferring a seat in a restaurant with your back in a corner and a door nearby. We learned that we'd lost more vets since the war than the 58,000-plus who were listed as killed there: self-inflicted gunshot wounds, drug overdoses, single car crashes... the Medal of Honor winner who committed suicide by holding up liquor stores with an unloaded gun until one of the owners finally killed him. 

     By the end of each rap session, the eight of us would be wound as tight as if we were about to go on patrol in enemy territory. As we got to know each other better and better, sharing our weaknesses and rage, one thing that kept coming up was how many guys we'd all seen go down because of alcohol, and how most of us faced that danger too. So in letting one another see parts of ourselves we'd mostly kept from others, we became closer, really tight after awhile. 

     So we went drinking together.     
   Most often, we'd walk out the front door of the Vets' Hall after a rap session, cross the street and turn a corner and walk up a flight of stairs to the Teacup, a dark, cozy little bar attached to the Chinese restaurant owned by Don Yee. Sometimes we were pretty wild in the Teacup, sometimes we'd just get drunk and morose. But we talked a lot, letting our defenses down, with the help of alcohol, even more than we did during the rap sessions. 
     During those drinking sessions, Bill and I would often gravitate toward each other. We were the readers of the group, the ones who would devour history books about Vietnam and other wars in U.S. history, and come up with more and more reasons for our anger, convincing ourselves that it wasn't we who were fucked up, it was the world we lived in; and that any sane person who'd seen what we'd seen would be as crazy as we were.

     I thought I'd read a lot. But Bill Motto flabbergasted me with his knowledge. He hadn't even been a Marine  -he'd been with the army's 173rd Airborne Brigade for one of his tours in Vietnam and in an armored unit for the other - but he was the one who first told me the other side of Smedley Butler's story: that, after retiring as a Lieutenant General with 34 years of the most illustrious service in Marine Corps history, Butler had written a book titled War Is a Racket. He had gone on a lecture circuit, using his status as a war hero to denounce U.S. imperialism, saying that during his years of service he had spent most of his time being a strongarm for Brown Brothers Bank and other U.S. corporations.
     Bill told me something else about the History and Traditions of the Marine Corps that I hadn't learned in boot camp. The Battle of Chapultepec, commemorated by the crimson stripe down the trouser leg of officers' and NCOs' Dress Blues – I could have worn such a stripe, had I wanted to spend the money for the uniform - was fought against boys, cadets of the Mexican military academy at Chapultepec - and was thought by some in the U.S. forces to be so unjust that a number of men from an Irish unit in the U.S. Army, the Saint Patrick's Brigade, switched sides and fought for the Mexicans. Some of them were captured and hanged. A friend of Bill's and mine, Chris Matthews, wrote a play about the incident called "A Flag to Fly"; it's been produced in Santa Cruz, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

     It was from Bill that I first heard about Bohemian Grove. In the Teacup one night, we both already had several beers aboard, and were swapping historical anecdotes. Bill told me about Shell Oil trucks being able to drive freely about Vietnam without being ambushed because they paid off the VC, and about other U.S. and international corporations that supported the war because they had interests there. He recalled Eisenhower's speech justifying aid to the French in their efforts to retain Indochina as a colony. Eisenhower noted the value of Vietnam's tungsten, rubber, and other resources that would be lost to the West if Vietnam fell to the communists. I'd come back with my story about Cho Lon and the "five o'clock follies."(see chapter “Cho Lon”). Bill would come back: "Oh! Oh! Have you read this book? The Politics of Heroin in Southeast Asia? By this guy...." He snapped his fingers to engage his memory. "McCoy! That's it!" He leaned in close with his wildeyed intensity. I took a deep breath. Bill was wired now; it could only end when the bar closed at two a.m. 
     "Alfred..W..McCoy...you gotta read this book. You won't believe this book. Well. Of course you'll believe it. It was, get this, the guy's fucking Ph.D. thesis. The guy went to Nam, went to Laos, went to France. He interviewed all these people. The thing is rigorously documented...." He launched into a synopsis of McCoy's book, beginning with the U.S. Army's deal with Lucky Luciano, the Mafia boss, during World War II. According to McCoy, the Army sprung Luciano from prison and gave him his freedom in exchange for Luciano's use of his connections to provide intelligence and other assistance to pave the way for the allied invasion of Sicily. After the war, the recently freed Luciano went back to heroin dealing, organizing a route that began in the poppy fields of Indochina and ended on the streets of New York, with Marseille as its hub.

     Still according to McCoy, Luciano's network hooked up with French military intelligence in a Mephistophelean bargain: the French officers turned a blind eye to the drug trade in exchange for help against the communists. That help began with using mob thugs to break up dockworkers' strikes in Marseille, then spread to Vietnam and Laos when the drug traffickers showed themselves able to provide intelligence about Ho Chi Minh's independence movement. Then after the French were defeated at Dienbienphu in 1954 and the United States took over the anticommunist crusade there, U.S. intelligence operatives inherited, from their French counterparts, an in-place network of intelligence sources. Later, during the 10-year American chapter of the Vietnam story, pilots for Air America, the CIA's covert air operations company, tacitly admitted hauling opium for the Hmong tribesmen in Laos who made up their mercenary army there(
). In a similar mood another night, Bill began with, “You know who Archimedes Patti is, right?” 
     I was silent for too long a second. “Fuck! How come nobody knows about Archimedes Patti? ... Oh! Shit! This guy..." He leaned closer. His intensity was always high, yet could always be doubled: “...this guy... was a fucking Captain in the OSS – you know, the Army guys in World War II who were clandestine operators, the precursor to the CIA? His job was liaison with General Giap and Ho Chi Minh against the Japanese in World War II... he wrote this book, man...Why Viet Nam?: Prelude to America’s Albatross(16). You gotta read this book. Oh shit man, you gotta gotta gotta read this book. There’s a photo(
) in there, in a jungle clearing in 1945, with Ho’s officers declaring national independence, and their declaration of independence is based on ours ‘cause Thomas Jefferson was a fucking hero of Ho’s, and all these guys are saluting an American flag! Giap, OSS guys, the whole fuckin’ nine yards...”     
     Patti had worked with Ho’s Vietnamese to rescue downed Allied pilots and to conduct anti-Japanese operations in Indochina during WWII, and had an acute sense of the politics of that time and place. He writes that Ho Chi Minh knew his independence movement couldn't survive without his siding with one or the other of the two behemoths already jockeying for position in the post-war world, and tried to ally himself with Uncle Sam.         
   I came back and told Bill about hitchhiking through Laos, bumping into Air America pilots, and having some of that material censored in an article I wrote for the Colorado College Magazine(
). I was told it might offend some of our alumni.  
    Giap, of course, was the general who later commanded the forces which defeated both the French and us Americans in Vietnam. 
     Bill went on to say -  this is borne out in Patti's book   -that the Declaration of Independence read by Ho on September 2, 1945, was modeled on our own, and that Ho appealed to Harry Truman to accept his government as legitimate. But countries which had been major allies of ours during the war - especially Britain, France, and the Netherlands - wanted their Asian colonies back after the war. Truman sided with the colonialists - and the war Bill and I and two and a half million other Americans fought in grew out of that choice.

     I couldn't match Bill's intensity, or his speed at spitting out facts, names, dates. But in my thirst to know more, and in my anger upon learning it, I was right with him.
     By then, we were reeling on our barstools. We talked about the men who had led us into that mess, and how much we hated them: Kennedy, Johnson, Nixon, Kissinger, McNamara, the Bundys, the Lodges (we spoke of the latter name in the plural because of roles played by Henry Cabot Lodge's relatives in such adventures as Eisenhower's CIA-led coup in 1954 against the elected president of Guatemala on behalf of the United Fruit Company).
     Our drunkenness and our anger reached a point where they began to converge, and we began to wish that there were some justice in the world, that the rich old men like those who sent poor young men like us off to fight their wars, lying to us to get us to do it, could be made to suffer some of the same things that they had caused us to suffer, that our comrades whose names were on the Wall in Washington had suffered.
     Bill began telling me about Bohemian Grove, the retreat not too far up the California coast where rich and powerful men, the country's power elite, gathered once a year for their secret self-congratulatory shenanigans.
     "They're all there," Bill said, "every fuckin' one of 'em." He started counting fingers: Reagan, Bush, Meese, Kissinger, McNamara, Schultz, Weinberger, plus the corporate heads whose names we didn't know but who had such influence on our lives. Heads of oil companies, tire companies, auto companies, insurance companies, banks, investment firms....
     "Wouldn't it be great to hit that place? To kill all those bastards in one nice, clean operation?" Bill was leaning in close again, his eyes glittering with the deliciousness of his thought.
     I allowed as how the security must be pretty tight.
   "Hunh! No shit...." He went on to say they had guards all over the place, with submachine guns and walkietalkies and leashed guard dogs.
   Still, it could be done, he said. There's no place that can't be busted, if you have the right people and equipment and you plan it right.

   We talked about how it could be done. You'd have to have intelligence. You'd have to bribe one of the prostitutes or strippers they hired to come in and amuse them. It wouldn't be easy; they paid them a lot and made them sign a secrecy oath and threatened dire consequences if any of them ever talked to outsiders about what went on at Bohemian Grove. But it could be done, with patience and money. Let's say we had the money. Here's the other thing. People like that always screw over people. That's what you'd hafta do, find somebody they really fucked over, take your time, get 'em to talk: what's the layout of the place? What's the electronic security setup? What gates, what wire, what sensors? How many security patrols, how many men each, what weapons, when does the guard change? And what are the billeting arrangements. Where, exactly, does Nixon sleep? Kissinger? Too bad LBJ's already dead.
  We discussed weapons, silencers, equipment, camouflage. Bill, as I remember, was partial to a certain model of Hechler and Koch submachine gun: superb workmanship, reliability. I remember thinking about the problem of being given away by noise, and saying, "What about just a few intense people with knives?" I told Bill about the Randall fighting knife I'd carried in Nam, that I'd since given away.
     Sure enough, we closed down the Teacup. I got home, beery-eyed but in one piece. I stumbled into my bedroom and there, on the desk I'm now using to write this piece, was a bouquet of flowers from my new lover, Annie, who would become my wife of fourteen years. She'd left a note signed "Yer sweetie, A." with a heart beside her initial.

     At times, over the years, I’ve thought that Annie might have saved some lives that night, though probably only mine. Bill and I would never really have done it. We wouldn't have been able to pull it off, and wouldn't have tried even if we'd thought we could. Not once we were sober. But there was another outlet for my rage that she might well have saved me from. I became increasingly angry about U.S. interventions in Central America, especially in Nicaragua, El Salvador, and Guatemala. And I became frustrated that so little of the truth about those situations was known – or acknowledged - by the American people, and further frustrated that probably no amount of truthtelling would make any difference. Reagan and his cowboys just did what they wanted anyway, Congress and public opinion be damned. I even considered going to Central America to fight, this time on the right side. I was just that frustrated, that angry. It had a logic to it: if it truly was as wrong as I knew it to be, and was so deadly to so many innocent people, and if I knew about it and nothing else was working, wasn't I duty bound to put my life where my ideas were?

     A tourist saw his body on the rocks at the base of West Cliff. The autopsy said heart attack. (Bill was in his late 30s or early 40s.)  We learned from his mother, when she came up from Los Angeles for the funeral, that he'd had a history of medical exams showing some mild dysfunction of the heart. But it hadn't been enough to keep him from the Army, or from coming home from Nam with two Bronze Stars and three Purple Hearts (or the other way 'round; I'm not sure which). 
     Anyway, Bill was dead. His body was cremated, and a group of us – including his mother, a sweet lady in her late fifties who immediately adopted us - took his ashes out past the cliff where he'd died to Natural Bridges, to scatter them in the surf. A wooden fence had been erected several feet back from the cliff’s edge, and a sign on the fence said that crossing the fence was prohibited. The State Park Ranger on duty there explained that some people had fallen down the cliff onto the rocks below, and had been badly injured or, in one case, died. We told the Ranger our story and begged him to let us go out to the cliff’s edge. 
     Amazingly, he gave his permission. We climbed the fence, tenderly boosting Mrs. Motto over into several pairs of waiting hands. We walked out and sat on the rocks at the top of the cliff and looked down past our dangling feet to where the surf came in and pounded the rocks and eddied around them.

     Shit. Were we blue. Bill had been a pain in the ass at times, always wanting to crash at our houses, always in your face or in your ear with his intensity. But we all knew that some precious, deeply buried part of each of us had been taken by Bill and lived right out in the open, on the edge of life, to the nth degree. We loved him, and all we had now were a few photos, and the painting Kenny Walker had done of Bill, in long hair, beard, shades and beret, showing off the Combat Medic's badge and jump wings he’d pinned to his leather vest.
     And we had these few handfuls of ashes, with their obscene/holy pieces of charred but recognizable bone. It was a clear, bright afternoon, with little wind. As we tossed the ashes out from the cliff, we could see them float down to the rocks and spume below, taking a long time because of the updraft, swirling about and finally descending like little clouds of autorotating butterflies. 
     Then, for a couple of long minutes, we just sat, silent except for the occasional shit! - which was all any of us could come up with to express how we felt.
     Something moving to the right, northwest of us up the  coast, caught my attention. I turned to look. It was a flight of pelicans, moving toward us, surfing easily along the updraft that climbed the cliff in front of us. "Here comes the honor guard!" I shouted into the wind. 
     The pelicans, flying in as perfect a V as those clumsy/graceful birds can pull off, passed directly in front of us, right at the height of our heads, so close we could see the individual feathers on their wings, even their eyes. I could  hear, as one or two birds made just enough wing movement to maintain both steady altitude in the updraft and their position in the formation, a slight sibilance as feathers slipped across one another.
     As the leader came abreast, I yelped: "Missing Man! Look! They're flying the Missing Man formation!" And so they were, a good V formation with one bird's place vacant on the seaward leg of the V, signifying, when it's flown by military aircraft, the absence of a comrade who's crashed or been brought down by enemy fire.
       We cheered as they passed.     



Thursday, September 12, 2013

KITCHEN POEM


12/16/01

Bacon:
pops and sizzles for the ears,
aroma for the nose. For the nose,
aroma of coffee, burbling in the
percolator, fat blue scent of milk.
Brown smell of hot yellow butter. Warm
yellow butter and hot bread. Good greasy
bacon gravy. Hot fried eggs, busted
runny yellow yolks.  Strong female voices
laugh, lie, whisper, scold, cajole,
teach
pie-crust
secrets.



                                    © 2001, 2013 Dean Metcalf

Monday, September 9, 2013

LLOVIZNANDO EN CHINAMECA


LLOVIZNANDO EN CHINAMECA

SEPTEMBER 9, 2013. My wife and I were having coffee this morning in our apartment in Chía, Colombia. We saw a few tiny raindrops speckle the concrete outside the window before us. “Está lloviznando,” she said.
       Her words slapped my mind back to the moment I first learned the word for “it’s starting to sprinkle.” Summer 1970, I’d just finished the first year of graduate school, and discovered I’d hoarded enough from my fellowship to get me the 300 miles to Mexico, maybe even stay there for the summer, if I didn’t eat much, and traveled “a ventones,” which we usually expressed by the universal gesture of sticking one’s thumb out into the wind. Hitchhiking.
       I carried one book: John Womack’s masterful history Zapata and the Mexican Revolution. I read the book as I hitched around Morelos, the state south of Mexico City where “El Caudillo del Sur,” the Chieftain of the South, El General Don Emiliano Zapato, had lived, fought, and died.
       What had jolted me back in time was a moment from that summer of 1970 when I had been sitting in the dirt beside the highway that crossed Morelos, waiting for my next ride. A Mexican peasant squatted beside me, also waiting for a ride.
       A few sparse raindrops made tiny puffs in the dust and disappeared, leaving not enough sign of their arrival to moisten anything, including us. My campesino acquaintance spoke, casually announcing the raindrops’ simultaneous arrival and disappearance into the roadside dust: “’sta llovisnando, he said.
       The moment didn’t seem significant, yet has stayed with me for 40+ years, because of the details it carried:sitting in roadside dust beside a Morelos highway, reading Womack’s book about Zapata’s life and death in and near the places were he had lived and died. Libraries are good, but this was better.

       A couple of weeks later, I had been to Zapata’s birthplace (Anenecuilco), and followed his hoofbeats  about Morelos. (He was a horseman, a general of the rebel cavalry. I don’t think he walked much). I spoke with some of the viejitos, the old ones, who had been alive during the 10 year conflagration that was the Mexican Civil war, 1910-1920. (I have moved many times since then, including losing my home in Oregon to the bank, in the process also losing nearly all my books, including Womack’s. So I apologize for not having those names at hand.)
       But Chinameca stuck. Buses didn’t go there, because few travelers did either. But trucks hauling livestock did, and one slowed beside the stockade while I stepped down with my mochila and waited for the dust of the departing truck to clear before walking up to the gate. The fort was something out of an old western movie, still very much in use. It was a square structure built of logs, big enough to enclose the soldiers’ barracks, a cookhouse, a tack room, and a stable, as I remember.
       A sergeant was in charge of the entire establishment. I approached him with my questions, told him I was a student following and studying the trail of Zapata’s life, and asked his advice about where I might find a room to rent for the night (while hoping he would offer something that was free). The answer to my question about a rental room was visually obvious before he answered: there was no hotel, rooming house, or anything of the sort in sight. The Chinameca stockade stood alone in the Mexican countryside. It was a military fort, and nothing else.) I then asked his permission to spread my GI poncho on the ground outside the stockade wall.
       Without losing his friendly demeanor, the sergeant shook his head. He said it was a bad idea for me to sleep outside, because of “los borrachitos,” drunks who hung around the stockade and mooched enough tortillas and bottles of oh-so-cheap muscatel wine from passers-by to keep them alive. He made it clear that their behavior couldn’t be vouched for; that thievery was the gentlest thing I could expect from them, and that as the night wore on, weapons would likely appears. Didn’t sound like a good night’s sleep to me. He said I should bring my mochila inside the fort, and spread my poncho on an empty bunk in the soldiers’ quarters. I happily complied.
       Chinameca was not a tourist destination. But the sergeant seemed mildly pleased with my interest in the history of the place, and not at all threatened by my inquiries. While he had nothing like a bookish preparation for questions about what had happened there, every Mexican who lived in the southern part of the country knew, or at least had a close idea about, what that history had been.

       On April 10, 1919, Zapata rode with some 100 of his men to Chinameca, to keep an appointment to negotiate a peace with opposing forces. The two sides agreed on a pact which promised safe passage to soldiers of both sides. Zapata and his men camped just outside the walls of the fortress. Unknown to them, the very rooftops of the fort were covered with opposition soldiers, lying flat on their bellies with loaded carbines, at point-blank range from anyone inside the fort, with the added military advantage of firing down on their targets.
       Shortly after dawn, at a pre-agreed signal, Zapata and his men rode through the gate of Chinameca. But instead of remaining open, per agreement, the gate was quickly shut behind them. The “neutral” opposing forces opened fire from their advantageous position on the rooftops just above Zapata and his soldiers.
       They were slaughtered, including their noble chieftain, El General Emiliano Zapata, El Caudillo del Sur: the Chief of the South.

       The night I spent in Chinameca, I slept on a Mexican Army cot, protected by the fortress walls, beneath the same roof that had hidden Zapata’s killers. (Between 1919 and 1970, it that roof probably been replaced once or twice.)

     That evening in the barracks, I read Womack’s account of the ambush that had taken place, literally, where I sat, walked, and lay down that night.