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Friday, February 11, 2011

ARABS, ISRAELIS, AMERICANS

After I left the Marine Corps and Vietnam, I kept going back to wars, trying to understand them - and myself. I’ve been unlucky enough, and stupid enough, to show up in a number of situations that could have gotten me killed, and also lucky enough to survive all of them with no bullet holes in my hide. Go figure.

I’ve also been lucky enough to have been standing just far enough to the side not to have my soul cauterized as many of my fellow veterans have, yet close enough to see some things… and remember them.
                           

         Palestinians and Israelis and Americans
     In the Spring of 1991, immediately following the cease-fire in the first Gulf War, I got a phone call from Scott Kennedy, mayor of Santa Cruz, California, asking if I would like to accompany a group of peace activists on a "delegation" to the Middle East. (Scott was an activist himself, which was not at all atypical of a municipality whose majority was considered by many to be left of Berkeley or even, by some jokers, left of Karl Marx. My friend and graduate school colleague, Mike Rotkin, was at one point elected mayor of Santa Cruz as a socialist.) I'd been a feature writer on two local weeklies, the Santa Cruz Express and the Sun, and Scott and his fellow activists hoped I would write about the delegation's visit to Jordan, Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza.
        
     We flew into Amman, and were bused to the Jordanian end of the Allenby Bridge. We climbed down from the bus with all our luggage, where we were met by a detail from the Jordanian Army, who herded us halfway across the long bridge to the barricade which constitutes the international border. We were handed off by the nervous, alert Jordanian soldiers to an equal number of nervous, alert Israeli soldiers, who escorted us across to the riverbank on their side. I felt a little like an actor in one of those B-movies who gets handed off by the bad guys to the good guys in a prisoner exchange… except that here, everybody claimed to be the good guys and called everyone else the bad guys and there was no script. The “mighty Jordan” river below the bridge looked like a minor trout stream back home.
     The peace group I traveled with, a coalition of church-based and other peace organizations (Witness For Peace is a name I remember), had arranged lodging for us in East Jerusalem. From there each day we would be escorted to pre-arranged “dog-and-pony shows” (as journalists tend to call them): presentations by various Palestinian and Israeli newspaper editors, retired military officers, and politicians who, for the most part, agreed on the necessity for peaceful dialogue and reconciliation between Palestinians and Israelis. They also agreed on the need for the establishment of a Palestinian state, while lamenting the fact that such a state seemed a long way off, due to the lock-step intransigence of Israeli and American policies. There was no presentation of the strident Israeli position that the Palestinians had been taken over by terrorists and must be met by equally forceful measures. The majority of the presentations reflected the agenda of our delegation’s organizers, which was to inspire and embolden us to return home and pressure friends, community members, church groups (I was the only non-Christian in the group), and politicians to change the “lop-sided” U.S. Government policy toward the Israeli-Palestinian dispute in the direction of less military and financial support for Israel and advocacy for a Palestinian state.
     One of our visits was to the Ramallah home of Hanan Ashrawi, a university professor of English and a senior Palestinian diplomat.
     It was a modest but comfortably furnished middle class home. She answered the door, showed us into the dining room, and invited us to sit around the table and in a few extra chairs that had been brought in from other rooms. Her husband, a tall slim man with a relaxed and friendly manner, served us coffee – that wonderfully strong “Arab coffee” that we’d already become accustomed to – and cookies. One of our group couldn’t help but remark about the seeming anomaly of an Arab man serving coffee to his wife, and a collective chuckle went around the room. Ms. Ashrawi met our stereotypical notions of Arabs with a graceful remark: “When he’s busy I serve him; when I’m busy he serves me.” Her husband endured the situation with a patient grin, and left the room.
     She was a strikingly handsome woman, with her dark hair done up on the back of her head in an arrangement both efficient and attractive. I took a seat just to her left, and got at least one decent photograph, a sharp profile, as she spoke.
     She talked about both the history of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and the current situation, arguing that the Palestinians also, like the Israelis, had strong historical claims to land in the region, noting that Palestinian people had been not only resident in the West Bank and Gaza, but also Israel itself, for generations – many since before the founding of the state of Israel in 1948. She pointed out that numbers of Palestinians resident within the borders of Israel, at the time she spoke, were Israeli citizens, but because they were Palestinians, were not accorded the same rights as Jewish citizens.
     Ashrawi spent some time speaking about the role of the United States in the region, and about the sometimes simmering, sometimes erupting, Arab anger toward that role. Ever-increasing Israeli military power, she said, was due in large part to the nature and scope of U.S. aid to Israel, military aid in particular. Palestinians were squeezed into a crucible by a combination of Israeli intransigence and expansionism – in the form of new settlements, under a shield of force, on land which Palestinians saw as theirs – and the habitual blindness of the U.S., and the world community in general, to what her people saw as the patent injustice of the situation. Specifically, they pointed to the swiftness with which the U.S. supported United Nations resolutions seen as negative toward Palestinians, but ignored resolutions calling upon Israel to vacate the Golan Heights and Gaza, thus supporting Israel’s failure to comply with those resolutions.
      We took a bus from East Jerusalem to Bethlehem; it took a half hour or so to get there. In fact I was startled by how close together all these places were: Jordan, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Ramallah, Tel Aviv, Gaza… and as a kid who’d grown up in the wide-open spaces of the American West, specifically remember thinking as I was looking out the bus window during that trip at the rocky soil alongside the road, no wonder everyone here is so mad: they’re all crammed together, on ground where it looks like it would be difficult to scratch out a living even if the situation were less crowded! We were amazed that such a seemingly sere landscape could produce the abundance of voluptuous fruits and vegetables that we had seen, for example, in the main market in Tel Aviv, and were told that since water was so precious in the area, Israeli innovations in drip irrigation were markedly improving food production. At the same time, however, there was much concern that population pressures would sooner or later outstrip the ability of rainfall, the few rivers, and the region’s aquifers to irrigate the land sufficiently. So, as in the American West from the time of the encroachment of the first white settlers, the allocation and use of available water was becoming an increasingly contentious issue.
      The small bus dropped us off in an open cobblestoned area in Bethlehem; the weather was bright and comfortable. We walked a short distance, then were led down some steep, worn, apparently ancient stone steps into an underground space, a small, stone-lined (as I remember it) chamber that, we were told, historians believed to have been the manger where Christ was born. Two of us, not feeling quite so reverent as our colleagues, stood slightly off to the side and conversed about the physical attributes of the place: how many animals it might have held, what sort of feed might have been kept there and where it might have been stored, that kind of thing. We agreed that, in winter, body heat from a few large mammals, absorbed and reflected by the stones, would have made it not such a bad place to give birth, or to be born, given that the young family had been denied lodging in a building more specifically meant for human habitation.    
     One of the more religious members of the group stepped over and asked us in a whisper to be quiet and respect the fact that for most of the group, at least, this was a sacred place. Though we hadn’t thought of our talking as being disrespectful, we acceded.

     There had been tension lately in Gaza. For that matter, we had felt ourselves to be wading in tension from the time we’d arrived at the Allenby Bridge - or the King Hussein Bridge, as it was called by Arabs. (I was struck by how many structures, things, and places had two names, until the nature of the human reality on the ground began to soak through my sometimes thick skin.) After all, the cease-fire in Operation Desert Storm was only a few days in the past. But tension in Gaza, we were told, was ratcheted even higher than in the rest of the region because the Palestinians there tended to be particularly unsettled regarding such issues as the right to work in Israel, the problems involved in documents for, and transport to and from, such work; not to mention the larger political issues regarding political authority and occupancy of land.         During this time it struck me, as it had so many times before in my life, that when a basic fabric of trust exists among a certain group of people, or between groups, such impediments as documents related to work or passage between two political entities can be easily scooted past; where if such trust is lacking, the smallest obstacles can lead to friction, even serious violence.
     So it was an open question whether we would be allowed to enter Gaza.
     It was still a question when we boarded the bus to ride there, and still a question when the bus stopped and we sat sweating in the noon heat while our group leaders walked gingerly over to the gate through which we hoped to enter Gaza, and spoke to the guards.
     There followed a terse, on-again-off-again process of talking with the guards, hand gestures, nervous smiles, and glum faces before they came back to the bus and said we could, for the time being, step down and walk around. That is, within a few yards of the bus. You can go over here and back, stretch your legs. Not over there. Not by the gate.
     Anan Ameri, a thirty-something Palestinian-American who was accompanying us, perhaps sensing my restlessness, asked if I’d like a coffee. She nodded toward a small kiosk maybe thirty yards from the gate in the chain-link fence separating Israel and Gaza. As we approached the kiosk, she said in a low voice that I’d have to do the talking. I didn’t know how these people were able to tell one another apart - Jew from Arab (they all looked similar to me, unless they were wearing some article of national dress) – but it was obvious, even to me, that it was clear to the scowling young Israeli man in the kiosk that Anan was Arab. That is, to the scowling young Israeli man with a 9mm semi-automatic pistol in an open holster on his belt, on the right side of his belly, where it was always near his right hand.
     I approached the window and said, “Two Arab coffOOF! ”, as my “…coffees, please….”  was truncated when Anan elbowed me sharply in the ribs and hissed: “SSSST! TURKISH coffees!” By now the young man’s expression had turned to one of barely suppressed anger. I changed my order to “Two Turkish coffees, please,” paid for them, and thanked him. We fled his presence to rejoin the others. Two names. For the same cup of coffee.
     There followed a game of waiting in scattered groups in the noonday sun, watching as our minders approached the gate guards again, watching those conversations from out of earshot, and waiting for The Word. It reminded me of troop movements in the Marine Corps: wait, move a little. Wait again, move closer to the gate. We’ll cross… not yet, but soon, maybe….
     Finally, after the changing of the guard, they let us cross, on foot. We’d brought only overnight bags, and would return to our lodgings in East Jerusalem the following day.
     We walked a few blocks to a small hotel and settled in. We were told not to leave the building: the situation on the streets, while not openly violent at the moment, was too tense. Our minders – or leaders, or guides, – were a couple of women who didn’t look to me to be over twenty years old, and seemed, to me, to be cautious to the point of fright. I’m not saying that women, including young women, can’t be brave or competent; I’ve known many who were. But my experience with this group so far, combined with my own impatience and prejudices, had me feeling that I was in the company of people who, while competent enough, were timid to a point that frustrated me profoundly.
     After dinner we gathered in a large common room for a group meeting. I raised the question whether I, a working journalist (or so I wanted to think) with considerable experience at staying alive in troubled areas, might be allowed at least a short walk into the streets of Gaza and try to talk with some locals. Not to offer opinions, controversial or otherwise. Just to ask people to speak briefly, in their own words, about their lives in Gaza. In front of the group I asked Anan Ameri, who spoke both Arabic and English fluently and who had spent considerable time in the region, whether she thought I could safely do this. She answered affirmatively, and offered to accompany me as both guide and translator. I was sure that Anan’s position and willingness to go along and help would carry the day. Just a couple of hours, I pleaded, just a few blocks….
     Our leaders strongly cautioned against my going, then put it to a vote of the group. Still exuding fear and negativity, and casting looks at me that showed clearly her opinion of me as a loose cannon who might wreck the whole project of the “delegation,” the young woman in charge called for a show of hands. Only Anan and I voted yes. Then, when I looked around the room as she called for a show of hands voting “no,” searching the faces of the few people I thought had any backbone, I saw each of them in turn search the faces of the others, avert their eyes from me, raise their hands, and jump on the bandwagon. The nays had it, many to two.
     I was angry, but my hands were tied: in a meeting before we’d boarded the plane in New York for London and then Jordan, the organizers asked for a pledge from each of us – I believe the phrase “your word of honor” was used – that we would without exception obey the instructions of our group leaders. Those who did not agree would not be allowed on the plane, period.
     After my request was voted down, a slim, intense young Palestinian man in a black leather jacket was introduced – or presented, I should say: a first name was given, and that was to be understood as just something we could call him. The word Hamas was whispered around the circle. The young man mostly kept his eyes down, but his manner was unambiguous, and when he did make eye contact his gaze seemed, to me, to carry more menace than conciliation. Still chafing from what I considered to be the generally spineless behavior of the people I was with, a part of me kind of liked this guy: he walked the walk, he put his ass on the line.
     There had to be space, he said, geographically and politically, for his people in their homeland. If such space were not granted by Israeli and American policies and actions, such space would be created. He shrugged, and here his eyes burned around the room. His words – and even more strongly, his silences – left no doubt, at least to me, that he had already made his personal decision to make whatever sacrifice might be required.

     Our meeting with the American Consul in East Jerusalem took place on a bright, sunny day in a spacious Mediterranean-style courtyard graced with a number of olive trees and surrounded by white stuccoed walls.
     We were called together and reminded that the Consul held ambassadorial rank, that his name was Phil Wilcox, and we should address him as “Ambassador Wilcox.”
     A tall, patrician-looking man in a tropical suit entered the courtyard in the company of an aide, who dropped off to the side as the Consul strode across to our group. Suddenly my own history came crashing around my shoulders. Could it be? Phil Wilcox… Phil Wilcox…!
     He walked past the others in our group and stopped in front of me, held out his hand, and leaned in close.
     “Ambassador Wilcox, have you ever been in Laos?” I blurted as I took his hand. Still shaking my hand and leaning in closer to speak in a low voice, accompanied by – I thought – a somewhat rueful smile, he said, “Yes, Dean, I recognize you….” Of course, his attempt at privacy was thwarted by the equally eager leaning-in of several people in our group who cocked their ears, open-mouthed, to hear what we said.
     I responded to their curiosity as Wilcox and I were still shaking hands: “We met - what was it, twenty-three years ago? – in Laos.” He leaned in again, and I have to admit to a certain gleefulness at the situation, as he said, quietly and close to my ear, trying at once to maintain ambassadorial dignity and ask me not to spill the beans: “I’m not doing here what I was doing then.”
     “The beans,” of course, was the fact that I knew, and he knew that I knew, that when we had met in Vientiane during the summer of 1968, as the aftermath of the major North Vietnamese and Viet Cong Tet Offensive that changed the course of the war was still winding down (see above, “Spook-Hunting in Laos”), his position as press officer at the US Embassy in Vientiane was really with the CIA. As my friend John Stockwell told me in one of our wide-ranging conversations about the Marine Corps, the CIA, and the US foreign policy adventures and mis-adventures of our lifetimes, “Every American in Laos during that time was CIA…” and here, Stockwell had made a level cutting notion with his hand above the table. “Everybody. Period.”
     (He should know: after growing up in Africa as the son of missionaries, he entered the Marine Corps and became an officer. Following his discharge as a Major, he entered the CIA in 1964, still following the values he’d been raised with: service laced with a healthy (or unhealthy, as he later came to believe) dose of anticommunism. He saw duty with the Agency in Vietnam (his wife was Vietnamese), and advanced in rank and prestige within the organization, at one time earning the Agency’s second-highest medal. He became Chief of Station for the Angola operation in support of Jonas Savimbi, and opposing the Cuban-supported faction in the Angolan civil war. He later resigned from the CIA, becoming the highest-ranking officer to both resign and write a book denouncing the CIA. That book, published in 1978, was In Search of Enemies: A CIA Story, which of course made enemies within the Agency, but which resulted in no convictions of Stockwell, because he carefully avoided naming any personnel whose names were not already public, or disclosing any state secrets.)
      But now, I could see that Wilcox really was a diplomat, rather than the spook he’d been when we’d first met. I could also see, even more clearly than I had before, the absolute permeability of any purported membranes, within the US Government’s foreign policy establishment, between the executive branch, the State Department, and the intelligence agencies. Remembering people like Colonel Edward Lansdale, I should throw in the military services as well.
     I decided not to make an issue of what I knew, at least not then. What was I going to do: tell my story to a bunch of well-meaning superliberals with whom I shared, by now, almost no mutual respect? What would come of it, if anything?
     It paid off, really: in another aside, Wilcox gave me some information, not yet made public, that he said would shortly be announced by the (George H.W.) Bush Administration. He gave me the information only after he’d made it conditional upon the accepted professional agreement, between diplomat and journalist, and we had agreed on the wording. I could not quote him by name or position; the wording we agreed on was something like “a highly placed U.S. Government source in East Jerusalem.” Soon after our return to the U.S., I heard, on a national newscast, precisely the announcement he had predicted. It wouldn’t have mattered anyway. By the time I returned home, my ability to interest any serious media outlet in a news story by me was nil: the trip had been partly paid for by peace organizations in Santa Cruz, which compromised my objectivity with, for example, the Los Angeles Times, with whom I’d recently had a special correspondent’s credential. That credential, which had been for the purpose of the Drew Harrington story, soon evaporated anyway. The rush of major media to “get aboard the train” for purposes of reporting on the recent Gulf war seemed to suddenly end any enthusiasm for negative reports about the U.S. military. I had virtually nothing useful anyway: my ability to gather material that I considered real and useful had been reduced virtually to zero by the impossibly short leash the peace people kept me on.

     It was nearing time to go home. In a way, I’d enjoyed being in both Israeli and Arab neighborhoods. Though the diaspora had sent Jews to the far reaches of the earth, events since World War II had brought many of those same people home to the new state of Israel, and they had brought with them a plethora of languages, foods, musics, dress, and customs that made it a pleasure, for me at least, to walk down a busy street in Tel Aviv and just absorb the stuff bombarding all senses from shops and passersby. I remember walking with others in our group along a crowded city street one day and noticing a sign in Russian in front of a shop, with a middle-aged man leaning against the sign. I couldn’t help saying “zdravstvuitye,” and making eye contact with him as I passed. The guy grabbed me, grinning all over himself, and wouldn’t let me go until he’d grilled me about where I’d learned Russian, when I’d been there, what city… I finally had to run several blocks down the street to catch up with the others. As I was running down the street, I remembered our first hours in the country, after walking across the Allenby Bridge, when one of us had picked up a Spanish-speaking accent as the guy in the immigration booth asked us the questions required to complete our documents, and asked him, “Es que Usted habla español?” And of course the guy lit up and replied with a wide smile, ”O sí, yo soy nacido en Argentina…”, which was a way of saying “I was born…” that was foreign to those of us who’d used our Spanish in Mexico and Central America.  
     The fact that our documents to enter Israel were being processed by an Argentinian Jew reminded me that there was not only a sizeable Jewish community in Argentina, but a significant number of German expatriates as well. I remembered reading Eichmann in my Hands, an account by the Mossad agent Peter Z. Malkin, of his own capture of Adolf Eichmann, Hitler’s chief executioner for the “Final Solution,” on a street in Buenos Aires. (Malkin’s co-author was Harry Stein.)
     Being a habitué of cafés in my very soul, I personally thought it would have been delightful to just hang out in Tel Aviv eating food from a different part of the world every meal, listening to jazz of many colors... that is, if one weren’t always worried that one of these interesting people walking in might be some poor soul who’d been promised seventy virgins when he got to heaven after blowing as many of us as possible to hell.
     Another multicultural experience proved not so happy as my interchange with the Russian emigré shopkeeper. That was my cab ride, alone and late at night, from somewhere in the Jewish sector of Jerusalem. I’d given the driver the name of the street our lodgings were on, and climbed into the cab. We drove for some distance through the city, and I saw the driver begin to get visibly nervous. Finally he slowed, crept along for a couple of more blocks, then stopped. “No,” I said, “not here. It’s farther on.” I motioned for him to drive ahead.
     “Non, non, ici, pas plus… les Arabes… ici, c’est tout….»  Shit. The poor guy’s Israeli, not Palestinian; he’s scared; speaks only French, among European languages; and isn’t driving any farther into the Arab sector, period. He reached behind his seat, opened the back door, and motioned me out of his cab. I paid him; he pointed in the direction I should go. I got out and walked, and in the small hours of the morning found my meandering way back to the place we were staying.

As our allotted time in Israel was winding down, I, at least, was ready to quit the place. I was glad I’d come, though I had no great hopes of publishing significant stories about what I’d seen and learned. The information and images kicking around my head those last couple of days in East Jerusalem were of a fleeting and general nature, stuff that would at least (and perhaps at most) lend context and shading to my future reading of the news from this part of the world.
     We had returned to Amman, and had a day or so to wait before our flight to London. The delegation’s organizers came around and offered one more meeting, to those of us who might be interested, with a group of men in a long-established Palestinian refugee area on the outskirts of Amman. They didn’t push it as being very important, and enthusiasm for another meeting wasn’t very high. The stressful atmosphere in which we’d been moving for a little over a week had put most people in a mood to relax and wait for the flight that would be the first leg of our journey home.
     Four or five of us crammed ourselves into a small taxi and rode through the more prosperous part of the city to an area that, while not squalid, consisted of very simple buildings squeezed tightly together along narrow streets. We were told that this was a long-standing refugee area, which had begun to be populated when the first of about seven hundred thousand Palestinians were forced out of the area taken over by Israelis in the years following the establishment of the modern state of Israel in 1948.
     We stopped in front of a nondescript building pretty much like the others on the street. After agreeing with the driver that he’d return for us in a little over an hour, we entered the building, climbed a flight of stairs, and filed into a small room where stood five or six Arab men, in their 40’s and 50’s, who were waiting for us. There were some simple chairs arranged in a rough circle, but not quite enough for all of us. The men were polite but terse: they insisted that we sit. All wore business suits and ties except for one man in full Arab dress, a brown robe with white kafiyeh.
     Introductions, of sorts, were made. Each of us “delegates,” upon being named, received a curt nod from one or two of our hosts. They already knew the nature and affiliation of our group, and seemed bored with us as individuals – that is, until I was introduced as the journalist traveling with the group. That sent a jolt through them, and one of their number said, in clear English, that they had not been told there would be a journalist with the group, and they did not like it. He pointed at my camera, which still had its lens cap on, and made it clear that there should be no pictures taken, period.
     The meeting proceeded - it certainly wasn’t an “interview,” or “discussion,” or “presentation;” it was more like a series of diatribes, with the Palestinians speaking, and with us listening in stunned silence. The men – all of them – were highly educated, and very articulate in English, which was virtually unaccented, though some sounded more British, some more American. I remember that there was a doctor among them, and at least one architect or engineer. They were all introduced as having postgraduate academic credentials, and it showed plainly in their speech. Their knowledge of the history of Arab peoples in general and Palestinians in particular, going back a thousand years and more, seemed, to me at least, to be both deep and wide. They also knew, better than any of us did, the history of Western interventions – especially American – from the time of the Crusades to the recent war with Iraq.
     And they were angry.
     At first they all spoke in the modulated tones of men who were obviously leaders in a culture where such men did not insult guests, even if those guests were seen privately as enemies.
     There had been times, in my intermittent career as a journalist, when my very presence, and more certainly my status as journalist, were so patently hateful to the person or people I was observing, that I put away the camera and notepad and just watched, just listened – at times in the interest of staying alive, as in the case of standing next to the Cuban mercenary who called himself “Perico,” in the contra camp along the Río Coco between Honduras and Nicaragua in 1985, as he pointedly showed me his garrote. And, at times, out of simple respect for the overarching human reality unfolding in front of me in that moment. Like the moment during that same trip to the Río Coco, when I actually saw the skin color of the four North American Indians I was with turn from their natural color to what seemed to me to be an almost ashen gray.
I had thought the light and the speed of my film sufficient to capture that reality with the camera. But what changed me in that moment from journalist to simple witness was the palpable orb of grief that suddenly settled over the group of four North American Indians upon being led by North American mercenaries to a cluster of skulls of Miskito Indians. Those Indians had perished, we were told, as the Sandinista Army had driven them out of their villages (in this case, Tulin Bila) and forced them to flee at a speed faster than some of the old people could survive.

     I closed my notebook without having written anything in it. But rather than feeling that we were about to sit through another more or less academic snoozer about Labor, Likud, Fatah, Hamas, and other groups, I soon got the feeling that we were in for a blast of keenly articulated fury that would go straight to the heart of the troubles in the region, and the United States’ presence there.
     The first speakers were the men in business suits, whom I recall having been introduced as a doctor, an engineer, and a couple of men who had done postgraduate work in the humanities. A recurring theme was the shared sense of amazement at the degree to which each succeeding American administration had, in the eyes of educated Palestinians, betrayed their own founding documents and principles: government of laws, not of men; equal justice under the law, and so forth. As they spoke, I began to have a feeling similar to what one sees in a child who’s been betrayed by his parents in a particularly blatant manner.
     The speakers began to get more and more personal: Who are you people? You, sitting here in this room. You say you are a democratic nation. Are you making your leaders accountable? And you say you are Christians. The way you, and your army, are acting here, in our part of the world - is this the way Christ would behave? Is this the way your Jesus would have you behave? As one speaker followed another, I got the clear impression that their anger was not just on behalf of their own Palestinian people, but that they increasingly saw the battle lines being drawn between all Israelis and all Americans, on the one hand, and all Arabs on the other. And all Muslims. And, indeed, all people other than ourselves.
     It was there, in that room on the outskirts of Amman, that we first heard about the Rodney King incident, where several Los Angeles cops had been videotaped beating King past the point of submission, just a day or two before. We had not been watching CNN, but the rest of the world had, including these angry Arab men.
     It seemed to me that the men in business suits had been quietly deferring to the man in the brown Arab robe and white kafiyeh. He was fully as fluent in English as the others. Now, as he spoke, he first expressed amazement that we hadn’t heard of Rodney King. Then his voice rose to a shout and his finger pointed angrily across the room at me. I assumed that because I was a journalist and perhaps also because I was clearly the oldest male in our group, that somehow made me even more personally culpable for crimes against his people than the younger members of our group. He gave vent to his rage: You! You have no respect for human beings other than yourselves… you don’t even respect your own! Your police beat this black man as if he were an animal… you fight a war against Arabs without even coming out on the field like men, you sit in an air-conditioned bubble([1]) and push buttons and kill Iraqis from a distance without even knowing who they are… but the whole world knows who YOU are, except you! You do not know who you are! You have no idea of the consequences of what you do in the world! What do we have to do to get your attention – blow up buildings in New York?
     Since I am writing this from memory rather than from notes, the words above are a paraphrase, though a close one: that whole meeting was seared into my consciousness. The angry Palestinian’s last sentence, however – the question “What do we have to do to get your attention – blow up buildings in New York?” – is verbatim.
     Ten years later, on that September morning in 2001, my friend Timm Turrentine called excitedly from The Hydrant, a bar in Joseph that was the only place he could find a television set to watch the repeated video clips of an airliner flying into one of the Twin Towers. He had meant to apologize for being late for work, but the magnitude of his news eclipsed the need for apology. It eclipsed everything, changed everything.
I hung up the phone with a feeling of great sadness, but no surprise: So now it’s begun.
   
                 


[1] As he spoke, I remembered a brief flurry of news stories about a tidy method the U.S. had developed for overcoming Iraqi soldiers sheltering themselves against the Allied ground attack in long trenches along the Saudi/Iraqi border. A helicopter gunship and a bulldozer – probably a Rome plow – worked together: the gunship pinned the soldiers down in the trench as the bulldozer came along and buried them, alive and dead. One U.S. official, responding to a Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) request for the helicopter’s gun camera tape, denied the request, saying “If that got out we’d never fight another war.” He seemed to think that was a bad idea.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

STARTING TO LEARN...


     The dress blue uniform of United States Marines is iconic, and not just in our country. US embassies around the world present themselves to passersby from host countries, and to international visitors, with a Marine in dress blues at the main entrance: polite, formal, resplendent in blue and yellow and crimson with metallic glints from the wearer’s shooting medals.
     And oh so formidable…
     
Dress Blues 1

     Bill took me to a gun shop in Klamath Falls. We couldn't afford anything, not even a used rifle. We went there to dream. Maybe they'll give me some overtime, Bill said. And we'll pick spuds together on weekends when they come ripe. Maybe we can get a good used .30‑30, not this year, but in time for next deer season. We could sure use the meat, save on groceries. Gotta tell your ma that, or she won't let us spend money on a rifle. .30‑30's not the best gun for this country, though. Good brush gun, but short range. Need somethin' that'll reach out farther in this open country, .300 Savage maybe. That's a real nice rifle, got a good long barrel, you get a peep sight on the back, with that long distance between sights, you can be real accurate. Bill liked peep sights. He'd gotten used to them during World War II, when he'd fired the Springfield 1903 .30‑06, and later, the M-1 Garand. Ought six's a good caliber, he said. You could get a lot of different loads for it, and you could buy ammo anywhere.
     We were talking like that, and the store owner, who knew we didn't have any money, was letting me handle a used .300 Savage off the rack. He wasn't busy. "Boy handles a rifle real nice," he said, knowing that'd puff me up, which it did. Puffed Bill up a little too, because he'd taught me.

     The little bell over the door jingled, and a man walked in. Instantly, the three of us were breathing different air. The man wore a striking blue uniform, topped by ‑ of all things in a dusty logging and cattle town ‑ an immaculate white cap with a brown leather brim and a shiny brass emblem. He removed the cap and tucked it under his left arm as he entered. The dark blue uniform tunic had brass buttons and a funny high collar that closed at the throat, and red piping at the sleeves and pockets. There were medals ‑ some shiny silver, some multicolored cloth ‑ on his left breast. The silver medals seemed to represent rifles and pistols. There was a broad crimson stripe down each leg of the blue trousers.
     The man knew the gun shop owner; they greeted each other. I could sense a subtle change in Bill, even though he was behind me, looking over my shoulder at the man in the strange uniform.
     The man in the uniform was watching me ‑ with approval, it seemed ‑ handle the .300 Savage with all the aplomb a skinny kid with glasses could muster. He nodded over my shoulder at Bill. "There's a young man I'll be talkin' to one of these days," he said to all of us. Then, to me: "Ever hear of the Marines, son?" He smiled. I was thirteen or fourteen. I knew nothing of him or his world.         
     I did know that both Bill and the gun shop owner had changed when he walked in.
     "No," I said.
     The man might have said something else. I don’t know. I just remember how he looked, and the feeling he brought into the room. And Bill saying with a testy voice, "He's a little young for that."
     The man in the glittering blue, white and red uniform did his business and left. I could feel the air in the room return to something like it had been before he came in, though a part of his presence remained.
     I looked at Bill's face with my question. Part of his answer was already in his face; it contained some mixture of awe and disapproval, with a hint of myth or mystery. "Marine recruiter, I guess," Bill said, looking at the gun shop owner, who nodded as he leaned on the counter. I asked who Marines were, lobbing the question for both of them to catch. The store owner said something that confirmed the awe in Bill's face, about Marines being the best fighters. There was more awe in his reply than I saw in Bill's face, with none of the disapproval.
     I was surprised at the anger in Bill's voice. He said something like, Sure, Marines have a lot of guts, but they don't care, they do all this crazy stuff, just stand up and fix bayonets and walk right into it instead of trying to do the job with less casualties. They get a lot of guys slaughtered just to prove how brave they are.
     As we walked back to the Studebaker Bill said, very pointedly, that when my time came, I should join any branch of service but the Marines.
     I never forgot Bill's admonition. But the man in blue had done his work.

Dress Blues 2
     We were back at San Diego after three weeks at the rifle range. It was near the end of boot camp. Those who would wash out were gone; those remaining would graduate soon. We would be Marines. They were nearly through carving and shaping us. The fat ones were gaunt memories of their high‑school selves; the skinny ones had been exercised and force‑fed like feed-lot beeves until, in some cases, they had gained as many pounds as the fat kids had lost. I was one of the latter. I'd come to boot camp at 145 pounds, and left it at 165, still with a 29-inch waist.

     They began fitting us for uniforms. We reveled: dress greens, tropicals, khakis, trademark Marine brown dress shoes that Robert McNamara, in his budgetary wisdom (soon to be monumentally eclipsed by his military stupidity) would order us to trade for black shoes so all U.S. military personnel could be shod from the same supply system. And real Marine utilities. Not those ugly, box‑pocketed fatigues worn by dogfaces and zoomies, but button‑sleeved utility jackets with the built‑in grenade pouch inside the left chest, and with our eagle, globe and anchor stenciled on the left pocket along with the letters that would resonate for the rest of our lives: USMC. (And the permutations: Uncle Sam's Misguided Children, United States Marnie Crotch - or just "the Crotch" for short. Even SCUM. That latter, of course, could be said by none but us; outsiders who tossed it out as a joke must immediately have the shit pounded out of them.)
     Everything but the utilities was tailored: two or three fittings per garment per man. We had to look sharp, and would. After all, they said, we were our country's best.
     Speaking of looks, what about dress blues? Now, more than two months into boot camp, we'd been abused and disabused. Cynicism was beginning to replace romance. Still, in our heads danced recruiting‑poster visions of the high‑collared blue tunics with red and gold trim, the lighter blue trousers with ‑ once you reached the rank of corporal or higher ‑ the bold red stripe down the outer seams. "Women and swabbies wear pants; Marines wear trousers," they said. But the tone was dropped when it was explained that our dress green and blue jackets were properly called "blouses". When some confused private asked why, when it was so important to call what we wore on our bottom halves "trousers" instead of "pants" to avoid connection with anything feminine, Marines were to refer to the jacket of our winter uniform with the even more feminine "blouse", the drill instructor's flustered response was a shrug and an admonition to beat the shit out of any non‑Marine who dared ask such a question.

     Dress blues weren't issued to privates. Out of each seventy‑odd man platoon, only the platoon honor man would get a set. For platoon 164, that was Johnny Vermalen; it would be tailored around his now less‑stocky frame, and his new PFC stripe ‑ gold with a red border ‑ would already be sewn onto both shoulders when he marched as our platoon's guidon bearer in the graduation ceremony in early December.
     The rest of us didn't get dress blues, unless we wanted to order them and pay for them ourselves, which none of us could afford on our pay of $76 a month. We'd have our pictures taken in them, though, for the "yearbook" each of us would receive as a memento of our training to show off to families and friends.
     The day for pictures came. We had been doing something urgent, like running or marching or bayonet training, and, as always, there was a great hurry to get back to it. So there were lines of us crowded onto a hot sidewalk between two quonset huts that bounced the midday sun back and forth at each other and, it seemed, through us. We were packed "asshole to belly button." And it was Move it, Move it, Move it...next! C'mon, goddamn it, move it, Privates, we ain't got awl fucking day for this happy horse shit, we got things to do...."

     So the picture‑taking amounted to seconds apiece. At the end of the line where it approached the photograper's lights that out‑glared even the sun between the metal quonset huts, several recent graduates of boot camp ‑ they were already Marines, so they could order us about at will ‑ would spin us around, slap a dress blue tunic with the back cut out of it on the front of each of us, pin the high collar in back to save time, and tighten the crude straps that had been added around the shoulders and chest. It was like a cut‑out doll costume from a cereal box, with no tabs showing from the front.
     And they shoved us through: snap, Next...c'mon, goddamn it!...snap, Next! No high‑school yearbook smiles, just rows and rows of manchildren behind false‑front dress blue blouses, boys with eyes at once dazed and fierce, eyes that already knew something terrible, something of which none had had an inkling three months before, something about the violence we would discover in the world and in ourselves.
     On this yearbook page are 25 of us in false dress blues: five rows across, five rows down. Key, Krejci, Kroft; Pizel, Powers, Preciado...and Metcalf, fourth row down on the left, only the glasses and skin color and facial structure and my name off to the side distinguishing me from any of the others, or any of them from one another; our false‑front dress blues all the same, our eyes and faces all exactly the same mixture of shock and weariness and newly tempered ferocity and thirst for something grander than ourselves and knowledge that what we find out there will have something of the false front about it, like the dress blue blouses we wear for these few seconds, then have ripped from us as we're shoved on our way.

     In the chronology of my life – and of this book – those two stories occur about 5 years apart. But though the second story finds me still in boot camp with two years of overseas duty, and Vietnam, still ahead of me, there is already visible some movement from shiny legend (or myth) to a hard, harsh, disillusioned reality. As usual for me, the learning process was painfully slow… 

Monday, February 7, 2011

LONGING


Boys and young men join armies for the usual reasons – poverty, to escape home, to fulfill a duty, to prove one’s manhood – but also for reasons not understood by the young male himself…

                                    Sunset Over Klamath Lake
     Coli Avenue was a dirt street two blocks long. (Thirty years later, it still was.) Our house sat on a knoll between the highway's north entrance to Klamath Falls and the southern end of Klamath Lake. The Cascade Range rose against the sky beyond the lake to the west.    
     One day in 1960 I walked to the mailbox and took out a form letter addressed to me from the Veterans' Administration saying my father was dead. I read it standing by the mailbox. It didn't seem to affect me much at the time. I was seventeen; I'd last seen him when I was eight.
     One evening after the VA letter came I went behind the house and stood on the knoll and looked out over the lake. It was sunset. The Cascades were an uneven indigo line against the western sky; Mt. McLaughlin still had snow draped around its shoulders. Wind moved clouds around the sky above the mountains; the sun's afterglow played with shades of red, palest pink to crimson of arterial blood, even on to purple. There was enough rain about to punctuate the burning clouds with strokes of grey. The pulsating sky sent tremors through me. An electric arc seemed to jump between my past and future, not distant in time but perhaps in place. The sky seemed to be a signal from that future, a call to go places and do things. It thrilled and frightened me. I couldn't wait to get there.
     Years later, studying Russian, I would learn the word toská which means, primarily, longing. It combines longing for something one is separated from with sadness at the separation. It can be a longing for something which once was but can never be again, or something desired for the future but which one knows can never be.
     Now, on the rare occasion when I encounter the word toská, I remember the evening I stood looking across Klamath Lake at the sunset over the Cascades. I also remember how short was the time between that evening of longing and my arrival on the far side of the world in situations far less beautiful, far less calm, far more violent.        
                                            
That story, and the following one, seemingly had nothing to do with my choice, a short time later, to enlist in the United States Marine Corps for four years, half of which I would spend in the Far East - including Vietnam. (This, in spite of my stepfather Bill Gano’s warning [see previous post, “Dress Blues”] about the Marine Corps.)
     But on a deep emotional level, the moment staring into the sunset on the shore of Klamath Lake, and the two summers working as a busboy at Crater Lake, would soon send me to the military, and then to war. In some ways I was a little different from others of my generation – I had a year of college behind me when I enlisted – but mostly – emotionally - I was typical.

Crater Lake
     A few days after high school graduation in 1961, I got a summer job as busboy in the cafeteria at Crater Lake National Park. The concession company hired mostly college students to work in the cafeteria and lodge. Mr. and Mrs. Griffin, the owners, felt that all those bright young faces were good for business. And we were cheap labor, willing to work six or seven days a week. A majority of the students hired were girls, because most of the jobs had to do with waitressing, maid service, and operating souvenir stands.

     So there were a lot of pretty, unattached females around. I was eighteen, but still hadn't had much experience with girls. I'd always been really shy around them. Scared might be more like it. But now I was going to college, I had scholarships, I had a job, I was out on my own. This would be my big chance.
     There were two sisters on the staff, so near in age that they often were mistaken for twins. I fell in love with the older sister. She would be a senior in the fall, which made her three years older than me, a huge gap. I didn't care. I thought she was beautiful, but in a relaxed sort of way, with a low, easy laugh that said she didn't take her looks as seriously as many women do, didn't want to taunt you with her beauty.

     It wasn't hard to get acquainted, on an Oh‑hello, I‑know‑who‑you‑are basis. All the staff ate in the cafeteria where I bused tables. Employees ate in our own section, and were supposed to bus their own dishes. But we would always cruise the section with our buscarts anyway, to banter with the others. Sometimes if we weren't too busy we'd do somebody a favor, if they were stuck at the end of one of the tables against the wall, and get them a dessert or whatever from the food counter. We had some stature because we controlled the music, and they'd have to ask us if they wanted to hear a certain song. The Ray Coniff Singers were big then, and we all had our favorites. "Harbor Lights" was one of mine. It spoke of parting, of a love more frustrated than realized. Maybe that's what attracted me, the longing to go down to the harbor and depart, in the dark amid strange sounds and smells, for unknown parts of the world, connected to, but not bound by, a love at home. And maybe, after some odyssey that left you scarred but whole, you'd come back and she'd still be there for you.
     When my secret love would come in I'd think of something to get her to notice me, like making sure the place she wanted to sit was clean. Without crowding her, I'd eavesdrop if she and her friends got to talking about music they liked, and I'd go over and play something I'd heard her mention. If she noticed and smiled in my direction, I'd clean tables like a whirlwind the rest of the day.         
     Sometimes we'd have to stay after closing, clear the cafeteria, and scrub and wax the floor. We’d be lucky if we got done by midnight. Mr. Griffin would give each of us a chit for a meal in the main lodge's dining room for that chore, since it was extra work. Those meals were pretty snazzy ‑ tablecloths, real silverware, wineglasses, the works ‑ and expensive. And there weren't a lot of the chits around. So any guy with a couple of them in his pocket was considered pretty good date material.

     I saved up two chits and gathered my courage. Normally I wouldn't have had the nerve. She was so beautiful, so grown‑up ‑ so... well, womanly. But I was feeling like pretty hot stuff. The way that happened was I'd gotten a day off, and since I liked to run, I'd jogged the ten miles around the rim to where the trail went down to the boat docks, and got a ride around the lake on one of the launches operated by a Coast Guard vet for the park concession owners. It was a great day, and when I got back up to the rim it was still before noon. What the hell, I thought, and took a right turn instead of a left. That would take me the rest of the way around the rim, instead of the short way back: a day's run/walk of roughly thirty‑six miles instead of twenty.
     It was wonderful for a while. I'd had lunch and water down at the lake. I was on top of the world, jogging along at 7,000 feet, on a bright day, topping a ridge where the road was a bridge leading right up into the lone white cumulus cloud anointing the blue of the rest of the sky. That lasted a few more miles, then reality set in.
     Several kids from the staff were hanging out in the lobby of the lodge when I stumbled in, well after dark - feet blistered, badly sunburned, woozy from dehydration and electrolyte depletion. They just gawked at how fried I was. There was quite a buzz about it for a while, about how it was a crazy thing to do, but great that I could pull it off. I was a temporary star in our galaxy.
     I wrapped my newly bolstered confidence around me and went up and asked that dream woman if she'd like to have dinner with me in the lodge dining room. I had two chits. Got 'em for waxing the cafeteria floor, I told her as I proudly offered her the fruits of my hard work.

     She looked at me for a moment ‑ rather a longer moment for me than for her, I think. I will never forget her look. She smiled. It was, as always with her, a genuine smile. She seemed pleased, and a little surprised, that I had asked. She even seemed to like me, but, I began to sense, in a kid brother sort of way. To this day, I think of the word "bemused" when I recall her look.
     "No thanks, Dean," she said. "But really, thanks for asking." Damn. The usual class: no phony excuses, just... No, thanks.

     Harold Lawrence, the boat crew chief, had a special presence among us. He was older, all of twenty‑six or so. He'd been in the Coast Guard; he'd been around. He drove boats for a living, entrusted with people's lives out on waters that could get dangerously rough, while the rest of us drove buscarts and sold souvenirs. Ashore, he loved his fun, and could kick-start a party by walking into a room. He also carried a certain edge; there was a detectable aura of danger about him at times.
     Women especially seemed to notice him. He wore sunglasses with lenses that curved around to the side to protect the eyes from sunlight glancing off the water, but he still had faint crow's feet at the corners of his eyes, enough to make him look salty but not old. He was always sunburned, and his dark blond hair was bleached and blown about by the wind whenever he came in off the lake.

     I had a pretty serious run‑in with Harold. He was sitting in the employee section of the cafeteria, regaling younger workers with some story. He had a few beers aboard; he was feeling his oats and enjoying his status as star of the current show.
     I came by with my buscart. Harold turned and told me to go get him something from the kitchen. Didn't ask me. Told me.
     "I'm a busboy, not a waiter, Harold," I said. "Get it yourself."         
     The party was over in an instant. Harold sat and looked at me a long moment. He let that dangerous part of him that we'd only seen hints of come right out through his face. He lifted his chin at me.
     "Go get it," he said.
     "No," I said.
     Everyone just stared at us, staying clear of the sparks. I stood there in front of him, as resolute as I was scared. Still skewering me with his eyes, he finally understood that, however badly I might come out of it, I was ready to go the distance rather than have him order me about like that. He let it drop. Sometime later, he apologized to me, in front of some of the same people who'd been there when it happened. I thought that showed real class.

     Some time after that, and after I had asked the woman for a date to the lodge dining room, I was walking along the hall in the first floor of the lodge, and happened to look in through the door of the cocktail lounge, that exotic place forbidden to eighteen‑year‑olds like me. She and Harold were sitting opposite each other at a small table, their elbows almost touching. They didn't see me stop for a moment. They didn't see anyone but each other. They weren't all moony and romantic; they were just two intense adults interested in each other. In fact, I thought that she took Harold with a grain of salt, that though she found him interesting, she seemed to have a boundary in place that wouldn't let him too close for too long. Still, I would have given anything, or done anything, to have her look at me the way she looked at him.

     That fall, I entered Oregon State University as a freshman in engineering. I got good grades, my scholarships were renewed, and I was re-hired the following summer, 1962, for my old job at Crater Lake.

     By midsummer I was restless. Crater Lake was a beautiful place, but busing tables wasn't the most adventuresome way to spend a summer. And Oregon State began to seem a less attractive place to go back to. I liked the engineering classes, but there were no women in them, just a bunch of guys like me with glasses and 24‑scale log‑log split bamboo slide rules. Besides, I had a yen to study foreign languages, or poetry; something that had less to do with things and more with humans. I decided to collect my pay, buy a good bicycle, ride around the Western states with the most beautiful mountains and rivers, and find a new college.             
     The kids on the staff threw a party for me, with a cake that said "Happy Bicycling Dean". I rode down into northern California to visit a buddy in Yreka, then headed back across Oregon to visit my mother in Pasco, just across the line in Washington. My older brother Lance had settled back there after his Army hitch; Mom had taken Darrell and moved back there to be near Lance and his wife and the grandkids, after I graduated from high school.
     South of Lapine, Oregon, the railroad tracks crossed the highway at a sharp angle. My front tire caught in the groove beside one rail; the bike and I went down hard. One crank was bent so badly the bike was unrideable. I went to the library in Bend while I was waiting for a Greyhound to take me and my busted bike to Spokane. I found a reference book of colleges and universities, and went through all the listings in mountain states, and culled out the ones with strong liberal arts programs. Colorado College sounded best.

     When my bike was fixed, I pedaled east out of Spokane, crossing the Idaho panhandle in a day. That night, I slept in a campground at the base of the long climb to the summit, which was the Montana state line. The next morning I started the long grind, switchback after switchback of steep mountain highway, all in the lowest gears of the 10‑speed Raleigh. A freight train was making the same climb, and often the tracks came close to the highway. The engineer and I began to wave to each other; got to be pretty good buddies, in fact. It turned out that the mechanics of his engine and the mechanics of my engine yielded the same average speed all the way up that mountain. So we developed a sign language, encouraging one another, then making fun of the one who momentarily fell behind. This went on for half a day.
     Finally that freight train and I rolled onto the summit, crossing the Idaho/Montana line. The engineer leaned out and gave a half‑wave, half‑salute, and I was gone. Mileposts, the second hand on my watch, and a brain that was still number-happy from engineering classes, said I was making fifty miles an hour down into the St. Regis River valley. I made it beyond Kalispell, where I got so many flat tires that I couldn't keep moving. Money was running low, and at this rate I'd never make it to Colorado College in time to start school in the fall. I got on a train for Colorado Springs.
     The college was just what I was looking for. The campus was beautiful, the Rockies behind it were beautiful. They studied English and poetry and philosophy and all that good stuff. And there were girls all over the place. But it was a private college, and much more expensive than I could afford. Transfer students couldn't get scholarships in their first year. You had to pay your own way for that year, and if you did well enough, you could apply for scholarships.
     I'd been thinking about getting my military obligation out of the way anyway. I'd rather have gone to college, but didn't have the money to do it the way I wanted to. I told the admissions officer I'd just get the service out of the way, and see him in three or four years. "Fine," he said. I could almost hear "yeah, right" under his breath.